Tuesday

VARANASI



After what felt like 5 years and 154 days on the bus from Sonauli (actually a mere 14.5 hours) we arrived in Varanasi at midnight. Were immediately jumped on by vociferous (and aggressive) motor rickshaw drivers. After a running battle of getting one of them to take us to the hotel we wanted to stay at we were greeted by the rudest, most unhelpful receptionist that we have ever encountered. However, he did allow us to pay an extortionate amount of money for the worst room that we have ever stayed in.

Needless to say, we checked out fiorst thing in the morning and moved to the old city where we found a nicer (albeit more expensive) room on the top floor of a buidling with a view over the Ganges and right by it's side 100metres from the burning ghats (where the bodies are cremated).

Varanasi is a fascinating city made more so by the fact that it is Indias oldest and most venerated city. People come here from all over India to pay homage and to literally die as it is believed that it is far easier to cross if one is to die in Varanasi. We only saw one person 'crossing over' but there were several others who were pretty damn close .... literally lying in an alley waiting to die ............. quite disturbing really.

The intensity of the city is hard to explain as you really havce to experience it for yourself but try to imagine the Harrods New Year sale with very, very angry sales assistants who have a habit of defecating in the open on the shop floor andf who want to charge you at least 20 x the going rate for whatever it is they want you to buy. Imagine also that if you refuse they will scream abuse at you in a none too friendly manner and you will come slightly close.

Fantastic food though!!!!!!!!

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