VARANASI

After what felt like 5 years and 154 days on the bus from Sonauli (actually a mere 14.5 hours) we arrived in Varanasi at midnight. Were immediately jumped on by vociferous (and aggressive) motor rickshaw drivers. After a running battle of getting one of them to take us to the hotel we wanted to stay at we were greeted by the rudest, most unhelpful receptionist that we have ever encountered. However, he did allow us to pay an extortionate amount of money for the worst room that we have ever stayed in.

Needless to say, we checked out fiorst thing in the morning and moved to the old city where we found a nicer (albeit more expensive) room on the top floor of a buidling with a view over the Ganges and right by it's side 100metres from the burning ghats (where the bodies are cremated).

Varanasi is a fascinating city made more so by the fact that it is Indias oldest and most venerated city. People come here from all over India to pay homage and to literally die as it is believed that it is far easier to cross if one is to die in Varanasi. We only saw one person 'crossing over' but there were several others who were pretty damn close .... literally lying in an alley waiting to die ............. quite disturbing really.

The intensity of the city is hard to explain as you really havce to experience it for yourself but try to imagine the Harrods New Year sale with very, very angry sales assistants who have a habit of defecating in the open on the shop floor andf who want to charge you at least 20 x the going rate for whatever it is they want you to buy. Imagine also that if you refuse they will scream abuse at you in a none too friendly manner and you will come slightly close.

Fantastic food though!!!!!!!!

LUCKNOW

OK, imagine Vasranasi then DOUBLE it!!!! Lucknow is the maddest, meanest, baddest place ever (and I don't mean this in a nice way).

Our arrival somewhat clouded our opinion of the place as after we had hired a motocar into the city we got out and proceeded to walk down the main road checking out all the hotels ... at the start of this we picked up a tail of a rickshaw driver who followed us for the whole mile of the road shouting at us to get into his rickshaw. I'd had enough in th eend and it all got a bit confrontational. what I had'nt realised is that ALL rickshaw / motocar drivers are like this in India .... they push and push and don't take 10 polite no's for an answer ... they then seem to get confrontational when I tell them to p*** off!

OK, rant over ....... we went to Lucknow to see the residency where 3000 British men, women, children and loyal Indian sepoys held out against an Indian army of 30,000 for 4 months before re-enforcements arrived. The site is, of course almost demolished given the fact that it was bombarded for all this time but it was quite moving to see and strangely made us feel very patriotic. One particularly moving area is where the children of the school held a breach in the defences. The small museum glosses over the acheivement of the occupants of the residency and focuses more on the bravery of the 30,000 'Freedom Fighters' ... still, I guess that this is to be expected ... no doubt Britain would do the same. Something that did niggle us was that whilst the Residency is 5 rupees for Indian citizens, it is a whopping 100 rupees for Europeans (plus extra for the Museum). Would not mind so much if the peoiple were polite but so far all we have encountered are the rudest, most ignorant, ill mannered people we have ever come across.

To top off the visit w ewent to the immambara (20 rupees for Indians and 350 for everyone else) where an individual then insisted on following us everywhere we walked and then followed it up with a demand for 20 ruppees for his 'guiding services' after I had volunteerd 10 ruprees to get rid of him .......... amazing!

Anyone reading this is probably getting the message that Emma and I are, as yet, unimpressed with the inhanbitants of India!

AGRA

OK, aside for our reservations regarding several aspects of India, it cannot be denied that the Taj Mahal is truly beautiful. I think our mood has been helped by the fact that we found a tranquil hotel set amidst a couple of acres of gardens yet central to Agra. We also have very attentive staff who will bring first the towels (tip), then empty the bins (tip), then do the bed (tip) then call and ask for dirty washing (tip) and so on and so on ............ it seems that everyone in India has a disability which means that their right arm is permanently outstretched!

Anyway, back to Agra ................. the Red Fort is great and it was a pleasure to wander the grounds (20 rupees for Indians and 300 for Europeans) as it meant an escape from the hawkers and street noise. The palace afforded great views and we could even see the Taj Mahal in the distance.

Next day we visited the famed Agra Palace ..... beautiful, exquisite and strangely (for India) peaceful.

JODHPUR

Ahh, the joys of travel in India ! Anyway, we made it to Jodhpur and got in around midnight. Stayed in a crump hotel near the station for the first night but somehow managed to find our way to a hotel fun by what seems to be the only honest family in India (that we have so far met anyway). Anybody finding themselves in Jodhpur should seek out The Kuku Gusthouse in the old part of town. Beautiful, immaculately kept rooms complete with the very best views of Jodhpur fort and what is more the people that run it are HONEST !!!!!! Cannot express what a pleasure it was to speak to someone who was not trying to rip us off.

Having said that, we did have our bag subject to an attempted snatching by a very well dressed schoolboy who when I told him to get lost proceeded to throw stones at us. Having decided that this was not strictly speaking very nice I chased him and shouted at him onlyt to find myself surrounded by a crowd who were turning very hostile towards me .... time for a sharp exit !!!

The fort is amazing (25 x more expensive for non-Indians but hey, we're getting used to it) and is actually well kept and truly a credit to the Maharaja who runs the place (but no longer lives there).

UDAIPUR

As beautiful as the picture suggests, if not more so ..... We were saved by Udaipur in the fact that5 we had a beatiful foom in a 300 year old haveli in the old quarter of town a step away from the lake. It was simply a pleasure to sit in the seating alcoves of the room playing backgammon or cards and relaxing whilst only occassionaly venturing out to combat the populace. Did go fo a long nornings wandering but were met with the traditional Indian greeting of "what are you doing here" (in a non too friendly tone). Nothing, however, vould completely spoil the amazing food that we ate in a restaurant that overlooked the floating palace run by the Maharaja's ex personal chef ........... truly fantastic curries.

Spent the days enjoying the sights and smells of Udaipur and looking forward to our escape from India ( we don't really count Goa as part of India as we have been told that the people are really nice there).